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Imagine two customers
walk into a luxury store.

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One is wearing a dress and a
fur coat.

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The other is wearing a jacket
and gym clothes.

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Which would you guess would
be able to spend more money?

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When researchers asked employees
at boutique shops in Milan

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that question in 2013,

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their answer was overwhelmingly
the person in gym clothes.

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00:00:27,986 --> 00:00:30,030
But even as recently as the '90s,

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wearing sweatpants in public
was a TV punchline.

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Again with the sweatpants?

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Know the message you're sending
to the world with sweatpants?

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You're telling the world,
"I give up."

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Because for thousands of years,

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clothing more or less
followed the same rules.

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The quality of your fabric and
tailoring was a status symbol.

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If you could afford it, you
hired a tailor or seamstress.

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Clothing clearly separated
the rich from the poor

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and men from women.

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There used to be a lot of
things that women needed to do

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in order to present themselves
to be accepted.

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And we're breaking those barriers,

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and here we are, and leggings
are taking over the world.

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Today, men and women
wear a lot of the same things.

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Some of the world's richest people
dress like anyone you pass on the street.

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And high fashion looks to
streetwear for inspiration.

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Activewear like this has become a
global market worth over $300 billion.

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It's almost a quarter
of all the clothes we buy.

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How did that happen?

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How did we start dressing so
casually, and why do we do it?

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Our designers have developed
new fashions for casual living.

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This is a synthetic fiber.
You mean we make cloth out of that?

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Research in miracle fabrics has
created a clothing revolution.

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I'm here for the spandex.

34
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And I just love how fashion is finally
just becoming more and more cultural.

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I want to wear my working out
clothes in my day to day life.

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It was more casual,

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but at the same time,
you could go anywhere.

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Yeah, the word "Athleisure"
probably came in..

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I don't know what..

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It's some..
Somewhere around 2011, 2012,

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and it was almost like a joke.

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Are we wearing more sportswear
because we're exercising more?

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Uh, no.

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Athleisure.
Athleisure.

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Wear gym clothes and still
look fabulous.

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Do you work out in those pants?
Yeah, I think so.

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But you haven't?
No, I haven't.

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While the term "Athleisure" may
be new, the trend definitely isn't.

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And it all started with free time.

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Free time is associated with
the ruling class.

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I mean, throughout history,
the ruling class had leisure

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because servants or slaves were
doing all of the actual work.

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But by the early 20th century,

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life was getting better for average
people in industrializing countries.

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New time-saving technologies and
pressure from organized labor

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ushered in regulations on
work hours.

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The average work week
dropped from 65 to 46 hours

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in the span of a single lifetime.

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One of the biggest drops was
in the U.S.

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What you find by the beginning
of the 20th century

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is that people of the middling sort
start to have more leisure time

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so they also can participate
in sports.

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Indoor gyms sprung up
in cities across America.

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That concept had been
recently pioneered in Germany,

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inspired by the ancient Greeks.

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The word "Gymnasium" actually
comes from the Greek "Gymnós,"

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meaning "Naked," because the
original gym clothes...

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Were nothing.

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And that would've been
a lot less constricting

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than the outfits of gym goers
in the late 1800s.

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But then their clothes started
getting more comfortable.

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That's because gyms were private
spaces segregated by gender,

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which meant women could wear
new designs like bloomers

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that would've been scandalous
on city streets.

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At the risk of arrest,

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women campaigned to make those
more comfortable styles acceptable.

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Because at the time, women's clothes
could be extremely restrictive.

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Wealthy women sometimes
needed help getting dressed.

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But once women were able to
play sports in college

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and bicycles took off in cities...

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Those casual clothes
stopped being so private.

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And that's when things
really started to change.

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Just look at tennis outfits.

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In 1900, players wore ankle length
skirts, long sleeves, and corsets.

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Then skirts got shorter and shorter.

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Tennis players like France's
Suzanne Lenglen

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became style icons.

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She served up a costume that
made the game more interesting.

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Her signature knee length
pleated skirts,

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sleeveless tops, rolled stockings,
and headbands

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helped her play the sport better,

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and young women started copying her
look as a progressive statement.

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By the 1920s,

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Vogue magazine regularly featured
tennis inspired looks on its cover.

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Clothes made for sports were
becoming mainstream fashion.

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What you see in America
by the early 20th century

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is a kind of blurring of
those things.

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So something like a sweater,

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which you originally would
wear to sweat in

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while you were in
active leisure pursuits,

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then became something that you would
wear to look casual and sportive.

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I certainly feel much more
comfortable playing in shorts

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because my skirt doesn't flap around
when I putt and when I walk over hills.

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Clothing that allows people to
move freely and comfortably..

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almost all of it began as
sports apparel.

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Sneakers come from croquet,
Henley shirts from rowing,

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and turtlenecks come from polo.

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That new casual American style
became known as sportswear.

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Commercials like this one

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advertised these clothes
as comfortable, easy to wash...

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Radiant from head to toe
in man made materials.

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And made out of plastic.

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For almost all of human history,

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textiles were made from
either animals or plants.

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Worms gave us silk,
sheep gave us wool,

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goats gave us cashmere,
flax plants gave us linen,

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and cotton shrubs, of course,
gave us cotton.

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If you look at cotton,

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it was readily accessible
to most everybody,

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and it was grown pretty much
all over the world,

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so everybody had access to it,
but it has limitations.

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Cotton can hold about eight
percent of its weight in water.

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For wool, it can be up to 30%.

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These wool swimsuits weighed
eight pounds when they got wet.

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But then scientists discovered how to
make a totally new kind of fiber in a lab.

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The magic of modern chemistry

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rocketed us into a new world
of modern fabrics.

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In the span of a few decades,
the chemical company DuPont

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introduced the world to all
of these synthetic fibers.

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First, there was nylon.

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DuPont marketed the silk like
fabric to women

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as an alternative to the scratchy
wool stockings of the time.

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They were a hit.

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On the run come the ladies.
Free nylons just for the scramble.

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It may only prove that a
woman wants to be a knockout

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even if she has to KO her
friends to do it.

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Soon, fashion magazines

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were filled with ads
for new man made fibers,

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claiming they would free women
from time consuming clothes care.

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And then DuPont invented
something revolutionary.

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I think we need to talk about spandex.

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Spandex, first marketed
under the brand name Lycra,

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would be blended with natural fibers
to make it more lightweight, elastic,

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and flattering to your figure.

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It meant that you could
create garments

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that fit much closer to the body,
but that were so comfortable.

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That made it possible
to create form fitting clothes

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without clever and expensive
cutting and seaming.

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Once you had lycra,

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any old stupid manufacturer
could do body-worshiping clothes.

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Body hugging spandex revolutionized
what we wore for sports.

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For swimming, skiing, cycling,

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dancing, and yoga.

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But there's one big problem
with spandex.. It's very clingy...

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In areas you may not want it
to cling.

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Are you ready to do the workout?
Yeah.

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Now, if you look at the Jane Fonda
videos, they've solved that problem

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by having basically a bodysuit
over top of the leotards.

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Stomach tight, buttocks pulled in...
But then came yoga pants.

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I started lululemon

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on the premise
that this pant was perfect.

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The number one key invention
was the gusset in the crotch.

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That's right,
the gusset in the crotch.

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It's a diamond-shaped piece of
fabric in between the pant legs

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that increases coverage and flexibility.

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I just basically took that bodysuit
and built that into the pant.

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So then it became acceptable
for a woman

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to leave a sweaty workout
and be out on the street.

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Design innovations like this made
skin tight clothes less revealing.

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I want to be able to...
Have it be acceptable

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that I can go and work out,

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take my kids to school,
then show up to work.

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And I don't want to break the
bank or have to change on the go.

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I want to wear one legging, really.

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I think that's why activewear
has become so enormous.

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It just suits the modern woman.

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Today, American women are buying
more stretch pants than jeans.

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But going from this to this
took time.

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It took quite a long time
before the public adjusted to

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what seemed to them
like shocking body exposure.

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And that was something that was
gradually mediated by fashion photographs,

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by movies, by television shows.

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By the early 1960s, almost every
American had a screen in their home

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just as the biggest generation in
American history entered their teens.

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Youth movements
were also extremely important.

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You see that at the beginning
of the 20th century.

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You see it again in the '60s,
'70s, again in the '80s.

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I mean, it never stopped
after that.

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TV also turned athletes into
celebrities like never before...

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00:11:07,541 --> 00:11:12,254
Just as professional sports teams
slowly started allowing non white players.

191
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The number of black players in
the NBA went from three in 1950

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to nearly 3/4 of all the league's
players by the early 1990s.

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Seeing athletes on TV,
along with their hoodies,

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their spandex, and their
sneakers lead to new trends,

195
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and vendors took notice.

196
00:11:32,108 --> 00:11:34,193
They are looking for the cool items

197
00:11:34,276 --> 00:11:37,613
because they've seen it on TV, and
they've been influenced by the fact

198
00:11:37,697 --> 00:11:40,658
that these are what all the
kids are going to be wearing.

199
00:11:41,450 --> 00:11:46,330
The lifestyle of young people
and their habits

200
00:11:46,414 --> 00:11:48,207
and things they're interested in

201
00:11:48,290 --> 00:11:52,962
increasingly have moved away from
formal business style dressing

202
00:11:53,045 --> 00:11:55,339
towards leisure dressing.

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00:11:55,423 --> 00:12:00,219
These new idols also inspired
the fashions of a new music genre.

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00:12:00,302 --> 00:12:01,846
♪ My Adidas ♪

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00:12:01,929 --> 00:12:06,225
Run DMC released "My Adidas" on
their 1986 album Raising Hell...

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00:12:06,308 --> 00:12:07,309
♪ I got 50 pair... ♪

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00:12:07,476 --> 00:12:10,730
The first rap album to crack
the Billboard Top 10.

208
00:12:10,813 --> 00:12:12,440
♪ My Adidas ♪

209
00:12:12,523 --> 00:12:14,400
Those lyrics prompted Adidas

210
00:12:14,483 --> 00:12:17,319
to set up an endorsement deal
with Run DMC,

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00:12:17,403 --> 00:12:19,155
the first of many partnerships

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00:12:19,238 --> 00:12:21,782
between a clothing line
and a hip-hop artist.

213
00:12:21,866 --> 00:12:24,368
And those partnerships
helped democratize brands

214
00:12:24,452 --> 00:12:28,497
previously associated with
country clubs and exclusivity.

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00:12:28,581 --> 00:12:30,750
This is Ralph Lauren,
you know what I'm saying?

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00:12:30,833 --> 00:12:33,669
Take it back to Polo preppy days,
you know what I'm saying?

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For hip-hop performers to
embrace that

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and sort of translate it in
their own way

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I think was a real statement
about what status means

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and who has access to status
and how it's defined.

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Ultimately sort of who owned
the markers of success.

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This style came to be known
as streetwear.

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Slowly, people historically marginalized
from the markers of success

224
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started to be the ones to
influence them.

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00:13:04,992 --> 00:13:06,285
And as hip-hop grew to be

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00:13:06,368 --> 00:13:11,791
one of the most popular music genres
in the world, that style spread globally.

227
00:13:11,874 --> 00:13:13,542
It started in New York City,

228
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moved out to mainstream America,
and then on to France...

229
00:13:16,378 --> 00:13:20,341
Japanese teens are dressing,
and, yes, even looking the part.

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It's just something
that appeals to me, really.

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00:13:22,676 --> 00:13:25,095
It's hip-hop, though, isn't it?
It's streetwear.

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00:13:26,555 --> 00:13:31,936
When you start having that kind of shift
from formal to casual to athletic

233
00:13:32,019 --> 00:13:37,024
to, you know, whatever it-it may be,
all of those things sort of upset

234
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what we know to be,
um, the hierarchy of status,

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how we sort of very quickly
aesthetically define people.

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00:13:47,660 --> 00:13:50,621
Over the decades, these trends
have had different names..

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00:13:50,704 --> 00:13:54,959
Sportswear, activewear,
streetwear and now athleisure.

238
00:13:55,042 --> 00:13:57,586
But they've all allowed us
to dress more casually,

239
00:13:57,753 --> 00:14:01,715
and that's turned the meaning
of clothes upside down.

240
00:14:01,799 --> 00:14:05,052
Gym clothes can signal wealth
better than fur coats.

241
00:14:05,135 --> 00:14:07,972
Women wear clothes once
reserved for men,

242
00:14:08,055 --> 00:14:13,477
and billionaires make public appearances
in running shoes and hoodies.

243
00:14:13,561 --> 00:14:15,855
But while more people
may dress the same way,

244
00:14:15,938 --> 00:14:19,400
that doesn't mean that they're
all seen the same way.

245
00:14:19,483 --> 00:14:24,405
Yes, they have the ability to walk
around wearing hoodies and jeans

246
00:14:24,488 --> 00:14:29,702
because they are white dudes in
Silicon Valley who are billionaires.

247
00:14:29,994 --> 00:14:32,663
Other people without that privilege,

248
00:14:32,746 --> 00:14:36,041
um, don't get to walk around
in hoodies.

249
00:14:40,462 --> 00:14:42,756
For centuries, people have
fought for the right

250
00:14:42,840 --> 00:14:46,594
to move freely, safely
and comfortably in public

251
00:14:46,677 --> 00:14:49,263
and to show their bodies how
they want to.

252
00:14:49,346 --> 00:14:52,391
Clothing is still a battleground,

253
00:14:52,474 --> 00:14:56,520
and you just need to turn on the news
to see that that battle isn't over.

254
00:14:57,146 --> 00:14:59,398
Protesters  wore sports jerseys,

255
00:14:59,481 --> 00:15:02,318
sleeveless shirts,
and baseball caps on backwards.

256
00:15:02,401 --> 00:15:07,239
Items banned under a new dress code
in the city's nightclub district.

257
00:15:07,323 --> 00:15:10,618
The fact that he was black and the
fact that he's wearing a hoodie

258
00:15:10,701 --> 00:15:12,578
makes him suspicious walking home.

259
00:15:12,661 --> 00:15:15,956
The mayor of Cannes
is temporarily banning women

260
00:15:16,040 --> 00:15:19,251
from wearing burkinis at the
French Riviera's beaches.

261
00:15:19,335 --> 00:15:22,922
Serena Williams will be banned
from wearing her black cat suit.

262
00:15:23,005 --> 00:15:26,133
Girls wearing leggings without
shorts or a skirt to cover them

263
00:15:26,216 --> 00:15:27,635
will not be allowed on campus.

264
00:15:27,718 --> 00:15:31,055
The company's founder and chairman,
Chip Wilson, he is stepping down

265
00:15:31,138 --> 00:15:33,515
after an uproar over these
comments that he made...

266
00:15:33,599 --> 00:15:37,478
Frankly, some woman's bodies
just actually don't work for it.

267
00:15:37,561 --> 00:15:41,607
We're sick and tired
of our clothing and our bodies

268
00:15:41,690 --> 00:15:43,192
being policed by men.

269
00:15:46,570 --> 00:15:51,158
Athleisure and sportswear
and cultural shifts

270
00:15:51,241 --> 00:15:54,870
have allowed us to value...

271
00:15:54,954 --> 00:15:57,539
Personal comfort above...

272
00:15:58,540 --> 00:15:59,917
Everything else.